| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Loading generator into truck
Great! Have fun with your ramp project! :)
Almost forgot, we are having fun are't we.
That 67lb Yamaha looks interesting.
|
85AllegroSam
|
07/14/08 06:05am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Loading generator into truck
I did not expect to learn anything new on ramps but this discussion has given me several ideas. I have been needing a set of ramps for this truck for years but never saw anything for sale that hit my fancy.
the angle iron weldes to comform to my particular ramp length and truck height with bolts through one layer of the tailgate sheetmetal will do me, and add a set of cables connected to the bumper for situations where safety is in question. Simple enough but just did not get the idea.
thanks guys, It's off to a busy week now. Have a good one.
|
85AllegroSam
|
07/13/08 09:56pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Loading generator into truck
Here are a few pics of the ramps I built several years ago for loading the bikes in the truck. I didn't feel like getting the truck out for the pics so with a little imagination, the chair will have to do in place of the tailgate.
Seriously those look like you don't intend for them to slip off. I really didn't think about making the lip that long, --- the simplest ideas are the hardest to have. I saw that expression somewhere in a similar thread. How much load do you estimate those things will hold. I know it depends on how much of the extension is engaged with the tailgate. How big a piece of equipment would you use those with?
|
85AllegroSam
|
07/13/08 08:43pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Loading generator into truck
Here are a few pics of the ramps I built several years ago for loading the bikes in the truck. I didn't feel like getting the truck out for the pics so with a little imagination, the chair will have to do in place of the tailgate.
Hey drill a couple of holes through the ramp extensions with matching holes in your tailgate and drop a couple of pins (1/2 bolts or something)through them and good to go. Now where did I put the drill. Wait aminute that's my purdy truck you are talking about drilling into.:B
|
85AllegroSam
|
07/13/08 08:34pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Loading generator into truck
I'm certainly sorry to hear about your freind getting hurt.
My ramps work great on my 4x4 truck with 33" tires. The plates that go over the tailgate are about 8" long, so they would have to slip quite a bit to come off the truck. The truck doesn't go up and down but maybe an inch or less when loading the dirt bikes, with me on the other ramp too. The 3-wheeler I ride up the ramps and sit on while rolling it down to unload. The generator weighs so little that rolling it up the ramps doesn't have any effect on the suspension of the truck so the ramps are on there very stable.
I made my ramps 12" wide too so there is not much chance of accidentally rolling off the edge of the ramp half way up or down. My friend actually rode his dirtbike up the ramp to load it. I haven't been quite that brave, so I just get a running start at it and push it up the one ramp while walking up the other ramp.
My friend was doing just that, running start. He does not know exactly what happened but we think from the marks in the dirt That when the rear wheels contacted the ramps on one side of the ramp it tilted slightly because the dirt was a little softer than he realized. When the ramp tilted the front wheel slid off, actually cammed the ramp sideways on the tailgate. somewhere in that mess things went to hell in a handbasket. That is why I think the ramps need to be securely attached to the tailgate somehow.
Ramps are very useful. I am getting up in years and so do not do as good a job of keeping an eye on everything while I am working as I once did. I have never had a problem using ramps even though I used them occasionally in questionable situations. A strong person, being fully alert need not hesitate to use ramps. I decided to try a lift of some sort because I wanted to be able to drop the gen no matter where the truck was sitting and also be able to drop the gen a few years from now when I am more wobbly on my legs.
Pickup trucks would be so much more useful if they were designed with built in ramps. The manufacturers would be faced with many liability issues so we have to make do with less than ideal stuff. If I was younger I would have grabbed some ramps and that would have been the end of that. You younger guys be careful so you can keep on enjoying this stuff when you get my age.
|
85AllegroSam
|
07/13/08 01:32pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Loading generator into truck
I have thought about mounting generator in lawn wagon (4 wheel) and then using aluminum ramps to unload. You can lock wagon in back of truck or tt as easy as you can the generator.
That was originally my idea. I put some nice wheels on the gen for ease off travel over the ground but when I got to looking for ramps I couldn't find anything that looked safe and just did not have a clear idea of how to fabricate and attachment for the ramp safely to the tail gate. The angle iron idea described in an earlier post certainly works ( I have used them for years on my 16" flat bed treiler) , but on 4WD drive trucks the height makes things a little different than on lower trucks and there is not a handy way to hook the ramps securely to the tailgate. I wish there was because ramps would be so handy for lots of situations.
I know of countless situations where someone got hurt using ramps. The truck moves up and down as you work your load up and next thing you know as you are focusing on that last move down she goes. One friend who is a, can do it all strong man and never gets hurt, is now after two years about to give up that his leg and hip will ever work again and he is in constant pain and getting addicted to pain pills. He was pushing a lawn mower, that wouldn't start, up the ramp and something went wrong. One ramp slipped and came down on his foot trapping him so he could not make that quick move clear of the mower and down it came on his upper leg and hip.
Be careful with your ramps.
|
85AllegroSam
|
07/13/08 07:12am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Loading generator into truck
I bought a little bed mount hydraulic crane from Harbor Freight on sale for $62. I mounted it at the right rear of the bed and it tucks nicely in over the fender well. Doesn't get in the way of anything. I use it to unload my crossover toolbox fully loaded so I can haul dirt, etc. You can see it here...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1647
That looks like the ticket. I would like to see one. Hope Harbor freight has one in stock. It would be great if the jack could serve as an axel jack as well that way the net gain in weight would be smaller. I am going to have a look:)
|
85AllegroSam
|
07/12/08 09:55pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Loading generator into truck
That sounds like what I'm looking for. I had been wondering what to use as an anchor for the lift. There are some nice winches, some even powered, that are used to winch boats onto a trailer that might do the job. The advantage of a powered winch is that there wouldn't be a side load on it from cranking or pulling on a rope.
I take it that the Honda 3000IS will start an AC with no problem. Did you chose it over the Yamaha for some reason?
thanks.
frank
I did not pick the Honda over the Yamaha, I heard a Honda running one day and said, that's what I want. I know I paid a premium (got it new on E-Bay for $1650 by shopping for several months)-- but I do love the quiet. Someone is always piping in that something else is just as quiet. I haven't heard one yet. Also I did buy it because it is a Honda, I didn't want to take the time to find the thing that is better. It always starts quickly when I turn the key, no rope pulling. I am sure there are other good situations but I am not blessed with wide exposure to all that stuff so I just did what I was sure I would not be diesappointed in. It starts my 13,500 air without any fuss at all. It will also take the microwave once air is running. Have not tried to see if the air will start if the microwave is running (I probably won't even try unless I am just playing around) but with the fan set to on there is less startup load on the gen when the compressor starts so that is what I do -- set the fan to on just to make things ideal for the generator and I suspect it is better for the air conditioner. The air starts easily even when running the gen on econo mode which lets it idle when under light loads. I do leave in on normal mode when I know I am going to be allowing the air to run for long periods.
On thing you will run into when running the lift pole from inside the topper like I did, is you do not have much room for a lift mechanism that is very long. I have the tackle blocks bolted into the end of the pipe cap and pull the blocks all the way together and just barely make it to the tail gate with the generator. If your topper is higher that might allow room for some sort of winch. My topper is a cab high so it was a close call.
|
85AllegroSam
|
07/12/08 04:12pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Loading generator into truck
Just now noticed this post. I had the same situation. I was too stubborn to settle for the 2000W gens but knew I couldn't lift 150 lbs safely into my 4WD Dodge pickup. I could do it but it was a maximum effort and I certainly would not be doing it very often. Like I said I was too stubborn to settle for 2000W and went ahead and bought the Honda 3000ISa. BTW I am extremely pleased with it but realize that the 2000IS setup has its merits but as it is what do I do? .
I decided to rig a pipe along the roof of the topper that sticks out over the tailgate and use block and tackle to to the lifting.
It seemed to take forever finding the stuff I wanted to try and I am sure there are better ways than what I finally did (get to it in a moment) such as using the trailer winches with some kind of mast etc.
Here is what I did FWIW. My truck has a sturdy fiberglass topper. I bought a piece of 10'x 1 3/4" iron pipe with and cut to length to be diagonally stored up against the roof so it would be out of the way in daily use.(somewhat longer than 8' but I forget exactly). Measure your own topper and get it as long as can be stored. You want it to be as long as possible so as to minimize the upward force on the front end, the end away from the lifting end.
I put one of those cheap adjustable coat hanger rods you find at Harbor Freight between the space over the left and right side windows a little forward of mid length of the topper, just aft of the front of the fender wells. The position fore and aft for this rod is determined by making it coincide with the end of the lift pipe as the other end extends past the tail gate far enough to be able to lift the generator and clear the tailgate with a little help from you while it is swinging from the end of the pipe. I drilled a hole in the hanger rod and also in the end of the pipe so I could bolt the two together while using as a lift. The purpose of the cloths rod setup is to hold up the weight of the pipe while stored and to keep it from moving side to side while actually lifting the load. While lifting the load the pipe just lifts toward the roof and pushes up on it but not very hard because of the leverages.
I built an A Frame out of 2"x4" lumber to prop up the other end of the pipe as high as the topper door opening allows so it could provide a lift point for the generator. This A frame sits on the tail gate near the middle and close to the bed. I had to put a base on the aframe to prevent it from flipping fore and aft because the cloths rod was not strong enough in practice. The base of the A frame actually sits on the bed and the tailgate with the center of the load being pretty much on the tail gate. Had to move the frame out over the tail gate some to keep the pipe from bending too much under the load.
If I did it again I would look for stronger pipe ( I think 2" would do well) and prop it up from the bed in order to keep the tail gate clear to receive the stuff being lifted but that is a minor detail. I would also replace the cloths rod with some stronger pipe cut to length and permanently attached above the windows. My set up does the job, --- not a thing of beauty but not exactly what I would do if I started over.
The lift mechanism is a small 3 pulley block and tackle I found after many trips to hardware stores. I gave up trying to find what I was looking for on E-Bay or other online. My searches just weren't working, --- didn't know the nomenclature. I found all sorts of trolleys and rails that would work but would be quite heavy and expensive. I am sure there is suitable block and tackle out there somewhere. The pulleys are about 2.5" in diameter and fit a half inch rope. I used 1/2" nylon rope from Lowe's to rig the block and tackle and to make a harness to attach to the generator. For a 150 lb generator it takes about 25 lb pull, plus some, to over come the friction of all those pulleys which is considerable. The thing that suprised me is how much side bracing was required (A Frame of 45 degree pitch) to keep the pipe from trying to fall sideways even though I was trying to pull straight down on the rope.
I think my replacement for the A Frame might just be a vertical pipe from, the bed to the main pipe and then some other smaller pipes that jam into the corners of the bed and cup the main pipe beam somehow. My goal was to have something that can be rigged up with out a lot of work that doesn't weigh much and is out of the way when not in use.
So with the lift pipe stored diagonally up against the roof with the block and tackle dangling down one corner of the bed and the A frame laying flat up front somewhere things are prety much out of the way all the time and it only takes a few minutes to set it all up and hoiste away.
I also bought 2 heavy duty eyebolts and mounted one in the bumper hitch holes and the other I drilled into the corner post near the tail gate latch to mount by removing the tail light so as to be agble to install the nuts. I used these to anchor the Gen with steal cable and clevises. I can quickly unhook these, set up the lift and have the generator on the ground in about fifteen minutes. The generator is positioned so the exhaaust is blowing out the open door with the lhelp of a aluminum sheet deflector I shaped to do the job.
Hope this gives some one the courage to take care of the problem. I read and read and read and finally in desperation I just did the best I could and basically it works for me. I wired my trailer so I could plug to the gen without using the shore power plug using a $78 generator switch box and about $30 worth of cable.
Next thing on my wish list is a $200 remote start and kill kit so I can just start and stop from with in the trailer or while driving so as to cool the trailer down.
|
85AllegroSam
|
07/12/08 11:30am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Dreaded Generator Question
OOPs you said 15 amp. Yes the 15 amp should do it if you have a healthy breaker and a solid 120V line, but you probably won't be able to run anything else on that circuit.
|
85AllegroSam
|
07/02/08 10:20am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Dreaded Generator Question
Any 20AMP 110V circuit will run the AC. Can't run too many more things on that circuit but the AC deaws substantially less than 20A. Just don't have the numbers off the top of my head. There is an adapter for your generator. Any RV store is most likely going to have it.
|
85AllegroSam
|
07/02/08 10:17am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Length Concerns
Certainly a Jeep can't do the job but while it is still pulling with a henseley/ProPride 3P the trailer won't be wagging.
|
85AllegroSam
|
06/27/08 08:54pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Length Concerns
Do the numbers concerning GVW etc and use common sense. YEP I believe that is how I learned --- don't use use common sense and you probably won't get a chance to learn:)
|
85AllegroSam
|
06/27/08 06:47pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Length Concerns
I just returned from a 4444 mile trip towing a big loop from Indiana down thru Missouri, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, Utah, Colorado, Kansas, Missouri, Illinois and home to Indiana.
I tow a 9000# 35' hitch to bumper TT.
On the way to Arizona (1800 miles) I fought a VERY stiff cross/head wind (depending on road curves)...the wind blew like CRAZY from Indiana to Arizona. Four NON STOP DAYS OF FREAKIN' WIND in the 30++ mph category.
I was able to pull 2 600 mile 12 hour days and 2 300 mile 6 hour days in that wind. I would NOT do it without either of the following towing MY TT.
1) My 138" of wheel base on my 3/4 ton Excursion
2) My Hensley Arrow
In addition to the non-stop winds in the flat lands...I got into many many canyon areas that had very gusty cross winds.
There is IMO no substitute for proper TV to TT match up. Sure there IS more to stability than simply wheel base...but a long wheel base TV for the average newbie goes a LONG WAY to aiding that person to stay on the RIGHT SIDE of the stability equation. Most folks are not techincally astute enough to understand which knobs to tweak to make a short wheel based vehicle into a safe and stable tow vehicle for a LONG and HEAVY trailer.
LEVERAGE and PHYSICS cannot be ignored...sorry.
joe.
We are on the same page. I have a propride 3p pivot projection hitch, same functionally as the Hensley. Most people try to tell me that the cost of the hitch is not justified for my particular trailer. They just want to learn the hard way as far as I am concerned. There is no comparison in the way you can handle the trailer between the hensley/propride design (also PullRite, the one with the swing arm) and the other hitches. I do not hesitate to weave to miss big pot holes (within reason) and I do not have to go into panic mode if there is a sudden need to turn. And, as you said the passing trucks go unnoticed. The sheer relaxation one can enjoy towing with the propride is amazing. You simply do not have to get so involved in the vehicle trailer interaction. Just drive with proper awareness of the weight, length, braking etc. It's the same type of driving as with a fifthwheel.
BTW the HensleyPropride will make a short wheel base TV perform better than a long wheelbase TV with a conventional hitch (assuming it has the proper GVW, braking etc.
I chimed in on the earlier post to impress upon those who are trying to make decisions on this that if they do not know enough about the dynamics then they are flirting with danger going against conventional wisdom of longer wheelbase TV, and good hitch, (such as fifth wheel, pullrite, hensley, propride 3P etc) They need to know that all the other hitches are compromises for the sake of cost or ignorance. If the trailer is small enough of course it doesn't make enough difference what hitch. I was young once and in getting started I had to sort through all the conventional wisdom the old timers were putting out and I came to realize that much of what was being said as gospel or fact all depended on a combination of other factors. Sometimes it was just plain baloney. I learned that when I rigged up that angle iron under my van forward of the bumper and put a ball on it. I moved a 35 foot trailer from Atlanta to Ky with no sway. I was very gratified to see for my self what a few change in the geometry could make. There are all sorts of ways to skin a cat.
The cost of the the ProPride 3P hitch has paid off in fearless driving, with few concerns about how the rig is handling. I don't have to be having a good day to decide that I want to hitch up and go. I don't expect it will handle a tornado very well and winds that would blow over tractor trailers and railroad trains are going to blow me over too, but those situations are usually pretty easy to ancicipate and avoid. When they happen someone wants to chime in and say the hensley couldn't cut the mustard. Many things can happen that the hitch has nothing to do with so seeing a hensley hitch on a wrecked trailer proves nothing in and of itself.
|
85AllegroSam
|
06/27/08 01:18pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Experience With Kodiak Trailers
Just to ease your worries some. I bouught a 2008 27CDSL Kodiak by scamper last february because I was impressed with its towability, floorplan and features for the money. soon after the purchase, I started reading the stuff on the Kodiak website and was dismayed at first but as i started checking into what all the fuss was about -- and basically found out that they had had some serious issues and probably the warranty was not handles well but the actual issues involved were all taken care of with design improvements. You can be sure it was a beautiful sight to crawl under my trailer asn see all the new designs for beefing up the frame.
The biggie was frames bending. I have been on some really horrible roads and the frame has not been affected. No cracked seams on the cabinets and counters. I had one really horrible situation where I drove the trailer wheels into a culvert that i had not seen. (please do not ask how and experienced tower could do such a thing) The trailer dropped so hard it jarred the truck pretty good and in my rearview mirrors I see the wheel free wheeling and continued forward movement drug the frame over the raised curb of the culvert. I had to continue to drag the trailer until the rear dropped off the curb dropping the trailer onto its wheels in a big tilt. I just knew I was having my worst night mare -- a totally screwed up trailer with no warranty backup. But the trailer does not show any effects of this incident except for some gouges on the bottom of the frame and rear bumper.
It is since then that I have been on the rough roads. I have finally quit worrying about the frame. And otherwise the trailer has been a dream. We love the single step into and out of the front and rear door. It tows like a dream. And the floor plan is just what we wanted.
|
85AllegroSam
|
06/27/08 10:19am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Length Concerns
It is not just the wheelbase issue. The closer the hitch to the rear axel the more stable. Also it depends on what percentage of the trailer weight is away from the trailer axels. if 100% of the trailer weight was within one foot of the axel there would be no sway except for what ever the wind would induce against the bigger trailler. bigger trailer the more wind effect but it is that weight away from the axels that starts to magnify things. In engineering terms this is referred to as moment of inertia. the further away from the axels you put a 100 lb sack of sand the more it can contribute to sway because the moment of inertia has been increased in proportion to the distance away from the axel.
there are a number of ways that a short wheelbase vehicle can be configured to do a good job of towing. Unfortunately most of them just aren't practical.
I had a short wheelbase dodge van once that I rigged a hitch ball just forward of the rear bumper about 4" because I was pulling a long trailer. The rear bumper was closer to the rear axel than most vehicles and with the ball 4" forward it could tow really long trailers without a hint of wag. I got the idea from the pullrite hitch design. All it does is pivot the hitch close to the rear axel.
Off course my setup did not allow for very short turns and only worked for me because it did what I wanted it to do. Just throwing out some ideas for you to work with to see if something works for you. Do not be intimidated unnecessarily by the short is bad idea. it is just that longer is better. Most people need to seriously consider just getting a really good TV and let it go at that but there are other ways to deal with the sway and length issue such as getting a trailler with a low moment of inertia. Its not the length it's the moment of inertia and total weight that you are really dealing with. Longer usually means higher moment of inertia but not necessarily.
My current 27 foot kodiak has a center kitchen and all the heavy stuff is very close to the axels. I haven't tried it but I think I could pull this thing with a jeep. It has no where near the tendency to sway as other similar length trailers I have dealt with.
A hensley hitch will do wonders for a short wheel TV. I have seen some F350's and F450's in some nasty wrecks so the fact that a hensley hitched trailer wrecked means little in the overall scheme of things.
|
85AllegroSam
|
06/27/08 09:52am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Its been two years.........
Bought my trailer a Kodiak by Skamper 27CDSL precisely because of the floor plan we liked that a lot of other trailers had similarly but this trailer is only one step. I am reasonably active, no stiff knees, but I still thoroughly enjoy the freedom to go in and out of the trailer so easily. When cooking outside there are numerous trips in coordinating the meal and I really appreciated the one step. My previous experience was a motorhome that had four steps. It really got old going up and down.
I see all sorts of older folks that otherwise can't go up and down steps in these 5 step fifth wheels and no wonder somehow they just don't enjoy the trip like they want to because of those steps. My two cents.:)
|
85AllegroSam
|
05/14/08 09:03pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: finding frame members (stud finder)
Right on Mickeyxx -- that is the way it will probbly get done. I bought a new Zircon i700 stud finder because it had a metal detection mode which would be an improvement for my house projects. I think it would do fine detecting the metal in the trailer but it is so big I kept running out of space to slide the finder. It can't locate the metal accurately enough for you to be able to drill a hole and hit it until you have scaned from the left and the right. Somehow it takes an average and homes in on the stud by repeating this process. There is a cabinet or something to hit just about everywhere but at least I can confirm that I am approaching a metal beam and use a bit of logic and press a little here and a little there as you say:) I would say the stud finder helped but still have to feel it out and take a shot. I missed one and had to get up the courage and move over a bit and drill another hole.
On to the next phase:R
|
85AllegroSam
|
05/13/08 06:18pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Pullrite or ProPride
For years I said I would get a PullRite whenever I bought a travel trailer but when the time came the cost and universal nature of the ProPride won me over and it tows every bit as good as far as I can tell.
Sam,
Do you HAVE your 3P already? Mine is expected to arrive in a couple weeks... I'm anxious to hear/read some reviews from folks that have it installed and are using it.
Thanks!
Jeff
No I do not but am expecting shipment any day now. I base my estimate of it's effectiveness on known good performance of the Hensley and the pictures I have seen of the ProPride. I am a mechanical engineer so I can vouch for the principle or theory of operation. It is not snake oil. The theory is proven. I am sure ProPride will be every bit as good if not better. We will see won't we? I will post what I learn.
|
85AllegroSam
|
05/09/08 09:51pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: finding frame members (stud finder)
Sounds like you are telling us that they do work:W
Seriously, there is absolutely no flex in most of my walls. that layer of styrofoam won't let the skin move even a smidge until you reach the point of pressing so hard something is being damaged. My interior walls are easy to work with by thumping and flexing. The places I do feel flex in my exterior walls seems to be where the frame is. There is a little hollow space there. At least that is what turned out in one situation. I had to drill a second hole to hit the center of the frame. The other one I filled with wood filler but it shows. Don't want too many of those.
|
85AllegroSam
|
05/09/08 03:56pm |
Tech Issues
|
